Clicking, or nothing at all
Most likely a flat battery or a bad battery connection. Lights that dim when you try to start confirm it. A jump start usually sorts it.
Slow, laboured cranking
The battery is weak, especially on a cold morning, or it’s near the end of its life. A jump will get you going. Plan to replace the battery soon.
A single loud click, lights stay bright
Often the starter motor or its solenoid. Jump starts don’t help. It’s a garage repair, so the car needs a tow.
Cranks normally but won’t fire
The battery is fine. Think fuel (is the gauge accurate? did you just fill up with the wrong fuel?), the immobiliser (a flashing key symbol or a dying key fob battery) or a failed sensor. Try the spare key first. If that doesn’t work, it’s a tow.
Starts, then dies straight away
Often the immobiliser not recognising the key, or a fuel delivery fault. Try the spare key. Don’t keep cranking, or you’ll flatten the battery as well.
Automatic won’t start or come out of Park
Check that it’s fully in P, and press the brake firmly. A low battery can stop the gear selector releasing. If the lever is stuck in Park, there’s usually a manual shift-lock release under a small cover near the lever, explained in your handbook.
FAQ
Questions people ask
Can a jump start damage my car?
Done carelessly, it can damage electronics on modern cars. A professional booster pack, connected to the right points in the right order, is very safe.